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July 5, 2024, 9:57 am

The pool, as I afterwards learned, fell to the lot of the Turkish Ambassador. There are plenty of such houses all over England, where there are no 11 Injins " to shoot. Everyone knows the secret now. They explain and excuse many things; they have been alluded to, sometimes with exaggeration, in the newspapers, and I could not tell my story fairly without mentioning them. How could I be in a fitting condition to accept the attention of my friends in Liverpool, after sitting up every night for more than a week; and how could I be in a mood for the catechizing of interviewers, without having once lain down during the whole return passage? This was our " baptism of fire " in that long conflict which lasts through the London season. It was, in short, a lawn-mower for the masculine growth of which the proprietor wishes to rid his countenance.

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My companion and myself required an attendant, and we found one of those useful androgynous personages known as courier-maids, who had travelled with friends of ours, and who was ready to start with us at a moment's warning. The house a palace, and Athinks there were a thousand people there. If at home we wince before any official with a sense of blighted inferiority, it is by general confession the clerk at the hotel office. I could not help thinking of the story of " Mr. Pope " and his Prince of Wales, as told by Horace Walpole: " Mr. Pope, you don't love princes. Everybody knows that secrete crossword puzzle crosswords. " The dove flew all over the habitable districts of the city, - inquired at as many as twenty houses. Time will explain its mysterious power. The Derby has always been the one event in the racing year which statesmen, philosophers, poets, essayists, and littérateurs desire to see once in their lives. The " butcher " of the ship opened them fresh for us every day, and they were more acceptable than anything else. Friends send them various indigestibles. One costly contrivance, sent me by the Reverend Mr. H-, whom I have never duly thanked for it, looked more like an angelic trump for me to blow in a better world than what I believe it is, an inhaling tube intended to prolong my mortal respiration. No one was so much surprised as myself at my undertaking this visit. That first experience could not be mended.

Americans know Chester better than most other old towns in England, because they so frequently stop there awhile on their way from Liverpool to London. Everybody knows that secret crossword. I cared quite as much about renewing old impressions as about: getting new ones. The tougher neighbor is the gainer by these acts of kindness; the generosity of a sea-sick sufferer in giving away the delicacies which seemed so desirable on starting is not ranked very high on the books of the recording angel. The afternoon tea is almost a necessity in London life.

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The little box contained a reaping machine, which gathered the capillary harvest of the past twenty-four hours with a thoroughness, a rapidity, a security, and a facility which were a surprise, almost a revelation. No doubt we should feel worse without the boats; still they are dreadful tell-tales. The visit has answered most of its purposes for both of us, and if we have saved a few recollections which our friends can take any pleasure in reading, this slight record may be considered a work of supererogation. On the other hand, Gustave Doré, who also saw the Derby for the first and only time in his life, exclaimed, as he gazed with horror upon the faces below him, Quelle scène brutale! Between the scenes we went behind the curtain, and saw the very curious and admirable machinery of the dramatic spectacle. I determined, if possible, to see the Derby of 1886, as I had seen that of 1834. Here are some of my first impressions of England as seen from the carriage and from the cars. We took with us many tokens of their thoughtful kindness; flowers and fruits from Boston and Cambridge, and a basket of champagne from a Concord friend whose company is as exhilarating as the sparkling wine he sent us. To all who remember Géricault's Wreck of the Medusa, — and those who have seen it do not forget it, — the picture the mind draws is one it shudders at. So early the next morning we sent out our courier maid, a dove from the ark, to find us a place where we could rest the soles of our feet. Ormonde, the Duke of Westminster's horse, was the son of that other winner of the Derby, Bend Or, whom I saw at Eaton Hall. You have already interviewed one breakfast, and are expecting soon to be coquetting with a tempting luncheon. Near us, in the same range, were Browns' Hotel and Batt's Hotel, both widely known to the temporary residents of London.

The moral is that one should avoid being a duke and living in a palace, unless he is born to it, which he had perhaps better not be, — that is, if he has his choice in the robing chamber where souls are fitted with their earthly garments. It was at the Boston Theatre, and while I was talking with them a very heavy piece of scenery came crashing down, and filled the whole place with dust. The poor young lady was almost tired out sometimes, having to stay at her table, on one occasion, so late as eleven in the evening, to get through her day's work. I was most fortunate in my objects of comparison. Everything was ready for us, — a bright fire blazing and supper waiting.

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So many persons expressed a desire to make our acquaintance that we thought it would be acceptable to them if we would give a reception ourselves. Then to Mrs. C. F-'s, one of the most sumptuous houses in London; and after that to Lady R-'s, another of the private palaces, with ceilings lofty as firmaments, and walls that might have been copied from the New Jerusalem. I did so, and, unfolding my paper, found it was a blank, and passed on. Hsent his carriage, and we drove in the Park. A little waiting time, and they swim into our ken, but in what order of precedence it is as yet not easy to say. In certain localities I have found myself liable to attacks of asthma, and, though I had not had one for years, I felt sure that I could not escape it if I tried to sleep in a stateroom. If I were an interviewer or a newspaper reporter, I should be tempted to give the impression which the men and women of distinction I met made upon me; but where all were cordial, where all made me feel as nearly as they could that I belonged where I found myself, whether the ceiling were a low or a lofty one, I do not care to differentiate my hosts and my other friends. Oliver Wendell Holmes.

I had set before me at the hotel a very handsome floral harp, which my friend's friend had offered me as a tribute. It is considered useful as " a pick me up, " and it serves an admirable purpose in the social system. Breakfasts, lunches, dinners, teas, receptions with spread tables, two, three, and four deep of an evening, with receiving company at our own rooms, took up the day, so that we had very little time for common sight-seeing. After lunch, recitations, songs, etc. It was impossible to stay there another night.

A secretary was evidently a matter of immediate necessity. In the evening a grand reception at Lady G-'s, beginning (for us, at least) at eleven o'clock. ''No, " she answered, " but I should certainly die were I to drink your two cups of strong tea. " We went to a luncheon at LHouse, not far from our residence. Lord Rsuggested that the best way would be for me to go in the special train which was to carry the Prince of Wales.

The wigwam is more homelike than the cavern. A great beauty is almost certainly thinking how she looks while one is talking with her; an authoress is waiting to have one praise her book; but a grand old lady, who loves London society, who lives in it, who understands young people and all sorts of people, with her high-colored recollections of the past and her grand-maternal interests in the new generation, is the best of companions, especially over a cup of tea just strong enough to stir up her talking ganglions. We got to the hotel where we had engaged quarters, at eleven o'clock in the evening of Wednesday, the 12th of May. The grand stand to which I was admitted was a little privileged republic.

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