Johnson 15 Hp Outboard Won't Start Clicking

July 5, 2024, 2:54 pm

Hard to distinguish electrical between fuel supply problems, especially. There is another diamond or triangle (depending on manufacture date) punch mark in the mid center. Problems with Johnson 15hp. 107) has a hollow center in it and can be removed by simply threading a 1/4". This was caused by that wire protruding too high and the flywheel magnet boss rubbed through the wire's insulation, effectively shorting out and killing that cylinder. Long periods of time, requiring a different timing than when at full. OMC model as aftermarket.

Johnson 15 Hp Outboard Won'T Start

First there is reference #41 or "timing plate retainer and link", next #46 is the "support plate" onto which is attached #47 bearing, ignition plate support" which is a plastic type large ring with a groove in the center. 4) If you happened to replace one of the timing plate to base plate bearing screws, could it happen to be longer and binding on the top of the block? A trip of "let your fingers do the walking" thru the phone book took them to a old outboard mechanic that was operating out of his home based shop. This is a position where the timing plate's cam positions the carburetor arm to where the ideal setting is for starting in relationship to the flywheel magnets and points or CDI sensors. Running on one cylinder before it finally settled down and ran. Johnson 15 hp outboard won't start troubleshooting. Put some penetrating oil into these holes. Of course this will ruin the threads. Before we get real carried away here, was the last gasoline used the ethanol type?

They even have a parts technician that you can call to verify if you encounter any questions. A compression test will not show is a secondary compression which on a 2 cycle motor the crankcase must alternate under pressure and vacuum. You can not match the newer configuration because the older type screw hole was farther forward than the later ones, if you try to use the new longer screw it will hit the transom bracket when the motor is tilted into the run position. Compression is just over 100 psi each cylinder, checked for spark at each plug. Becoming plugged with varnish (from that fuel) YES, it is a good idea to. Johnson 15 hp outboard won't start problems. Long ago, I sold a 12' plywood boat (that I built one winter) and 1958 10hp Mercury motor to one of these guys. Some Red-Neck mechanics drill holes in the exhaust pipe to lessen this pressure, which may not help enough on a worn motor and significantly increases noise. Improvised spark tester. One thing that appears may work is find someone who is on a stomach feeding tube using a gravity bag. However if you do tear one apart, when you reinstall the bowl float which has the inlet needle attached, check the float setting, which with the float installed (bottom bowl off) and the unit upside down the float resting on the shut-off needle, this float needs to be parallel to the carburetor's body. I sprayed starter fluid in the carb it started and ran for a few seconds until the starter fluid burned up. Make sure this screen is not clogged, and that the neoprene gasket is intact and sealing properly. Then if you are looking at other brands of motors, like Mercury, Scott Atwater, West Bend, Elgin, Muncie Gear Works to name a few.

Johnson 15 Hp Outboard Won't Start Problems

I got caught in this once, guy brought a motor in, it ran at a idle fine, but speed it up to about mid throttle it would lope, (miss-then restart repeatedly). DO NOT DAMAGE IT, as they both seem to be made to not be removed. Sheared flywheel key, with part of it still in crankshaft||Here is the sheared part of the key that WAS in the flywheel groove|. You will note that on the newer motors, OMC did away with the metal bottom and replaced it with a form of plastic/nylon, which would eliminate this rust kind of problem. Different, which could possibly allow it to not bind up then. Also check the screen in your fuel pump. Remember that these motors are 2. cycle. Why won't my outboard start. When I got into it by pulling the flywheel, there was dry, redish brown rust on the outsides of both coils, indicating that the motor had laid on it's side in water (and probably) over the winter enough to get rusty after the water evaporated or the motor was retrieved. Here we will cover the 9. He pleaded, I will pay you what ever you want. Use of non-inductive resistor type plugs on these motors can cause misfire and poor performance. I then peened the old soft plug slightly, reinstalled it, placed some JB Weld epoxy over the hole that I had made with the ice pick.

You should be able to blow from the front side, and then suck from the same side. Replace the coil if the pulse coil resistance is out of spec. 54) Friction Adjustment Screw: On the LH side of the midsection tower is a large headed screw that has a heavy coil spring around the screw and under the head. Pull the fuel line off the carburetor and with the tank connected to the engine and pull starter rope, rolling the motor over. You should not run it on this for a long time as starting fluid had no lubrication qualities as the mixed fuel/oil does.

Why Won't My Outboard Start

Usually this would mean that the problem would be spark related. In these holes are 2 bolts that are screwed in sideways. Pull the boat out, or at home in a tank). A clean up and wire-feed welding job remedied this problem. If the spark plug is bad, replace it. It was getting late in the evening and I wanted to get the problem taken care of and with the motor still running on the muffs, in the darkness, I just happened to look at the side of the powerhead, there was blue arcing off the bottom power pack bolt. Tap the aluminum with a small hammer at this location.

Can hold the points open. What I have found on some of the older carburetors where the float valve needle being the older type, that does not the little tit on the bottom and a spring clip attached from it to the float arm to pull the needle down, this needle may be stuck in the valve body, stopping any fuel to get into the carb. Remember that this was before unleaded gasoline or even possibly an octane rating that was listed at the pumps. 36) Transmission "Stuck" in Neutral: Do Not Force Shifting Lever IF Motor is Not Running. Cut out 2 large holes, drill (2) 1/4" holes in the bottom center. If you have removed the timing plate, one thing to remember is to try to move it through it's complete range of movement before you do anything else. Years later I had a similar experience but with a 10hp Johnson, the motor ran when I made the trade. Also, do not oil the flywheel/crankshaft connection, as it needs to be CLEAN and DRY, otherwise the flywheel may be loose enough to partly shear off the key, changing the ignition timing. As you drive it down, try to use it as a fulcrum prying the key outward at the top first.

How To Start A Johnson 15 Hp Outboard

Stroke, and close for the exhaust stroke, blocking the internal pressure. Pull the upper cowling off. If I am flooding out the engine, is there a way to tell? Makes you appear smart to start with, but doesn't fix the motor. To test them, blow / suck on them. Normally the broken part will not be found so the owner does not know what is wrong or missing. Their recommended minimum octane rating is 86, up to 91. Sets for a while the excess unburned oil. Try to Start it First Off; There is no need do a lot of preliminary tear down if the motor does not need it.

The fuel line from the disconnect fitting to the pump has gotten hard. All water cooled motors will have a water intake on the lower unit. Reed valves shown from the piston /crankcase side of the plate. It starts and runs good for two minutes and then dies.

Johnson 15 Hp Outboard Won't Start Troubleshooting

But the consensus from many experienced boaters is to use any good brand of oil, as long as it has the TWC-3 rating, it meets or exceeds the manufacturers specifications. 030" which is pretty standard for about all outboard motors. This will usually be easy to detect in that it will make a mess under the flywheel, namely fuel/oil mix spilling down around the block. If someone has removed and replaced the carburetor, possibly they reused the carb/manifold gasket that had gotten stuck, removed and reinstalled differently, and now is not making a good airtight connection, where the carb could be sucking air. Of running dry before the other is very possible. On the above motor after tightening all the ground wires, this motor still acted up as before.

If everything else looks good, and it will not fire, this is the first and simplest thing to look at. On this 1987, manual start motor, note the shift lever in neutral & the black plastic Neutral Safety lever stopping the rotational movement of the metal timing plate arm at the center of the picture just below the center of the flywheel. If the motor was used in saltwater, this is one place that since it is "out of sight" it will not be removed, oiled with any frequency.

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