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July 8, 2024, 9:35 am

By the end of the year, Helena Rubenstein plans to open a space on Spring Street, which will be both store and day spa. With the flight of art galleries to Chelsea, beauty has become SoHo's new art -- or at least, that's how cosmetics retailers want consumers to think of it. ''I don't think the single-brand stores can succeed economically, '' Mr. Ledes of Cosmetic World said, adding that Sephora seems to have the best chance in SoHo for long-term success. Lee ignored them, opting instead for the $10 bottle of Charm glitter powder she was going to buy to begin with. Sephora promises a wall of more than 400 lipsticks, a skin treatment library, organized by problems and solutions, and a fragrance organ, a display where shoppers can dab and spritz at will. Shu Uemura, a Japanese makeup artist, opened his high temple of beauty on Greene Street in November. Nail polish brand in square bottle. ''The whole idea is to get individual brands out of the clutter of department stores, '' said John Ledes, editor and publisher of Cosmetic World, a trade magazine. Makeup Forever, for instance, lures strollers inside with a woman whose indigo toenail polish matches the jeweled bindi on her brow.

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Then again, a silvery nail polish she likes -- called, she thinks, Obscenity -- is one block south at Face Stockholm. ''People are sick of it. ''Since the early 90's, department-store traffic has continually slowed, '' he said. Origins is so environmentally friendly that one willowy blond shopper wondered aloud why the green-and-khaki-clad staff members were impersonating forest rangers. Not the one Mayor Rudolph W. Giuliani fumes about, but rather the kind that plies toners, moisturizers and other forms of hope in a bottle. The computer suggested words for how she was feeling, or wanted to feel. Sets found in the same folder. L'Occitane uses Braille on most of its packages. Recent flashcard sets. Nail polish in square bottle. Students also viewed. ''And I promise you, men will feel comfortable shopping here, '' said Sherry Baker, vice president for international marketing. There are magazines to read, and there is icy lotus tea to sip, as a ''beauty partner'' -- please, not a salesclerk -- materializes from seemingly nowhere to explain the 5S philosophy.

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''The one-brand stores will have a great difficulty in surmounting that historic habit. This was probably not how he planned to spend his day. Nail polish in square bottles crossword clue. Whether beauty becomes as integral to SoHo as fish is to Fulton Market is an open question. Sephora is only the latest and most ambitious of beauty retailers to head to the area better known for canvases by Eric Fischl than for facials. At this point, a confusing array of 5S products popped onto the screen. At Shiseido's 2, 700-square-foot 5S, a mid-price cosmetics line geared toward women in their 20's and 30's, there is the muted sound of running water coming from somewhere.

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One shopper, a fresh-scrubbed 30-something woman, stepped tentatively into the store, eyeballed the modelesque sales personnel and fled. Recommended textbook solutions. ''The meatpackers have their district, the financial guys, the garmentos, the flower people -- they all have theirs, '' said Marcia Kilgore, owner of Bliss Spa on Broadway. Outlets for Mac Cosmetics, Aveda and Origins -- all owned by the Estee Lauder company -- have been around for years, but since last fall, the competition has gone into overdrive. ''The American woman has one quote, unquote, failing, which is a love of selection and variety, '' he said. But she was pleased, and rubbing the powder on her arms, she returned sparkling to the streets of SoHo. The stores are even designed like galleries, with soaring spaces and high-tech installations. Her tattooed and branded boyfriend stares coolly into the distance, contemplating a nonexistent horizon. If she might want a little of each -- comfort and firm skin -- presumably, she's on her own. ''Notice that everything in this store is circular, '' said Kim Ryan, the store manager, who sports a circular tatoo around her bicep that reads, ''That which doesn't kill makes us stronger. A PALE woman in black stands on the corner of Mercer and Prince Streets, twirling like a weather vane. Ms. Lee hesitantly clicked on phrases like ''revive your spirit, '' ''need willpower'' and ''empowering. ''

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Every store has its gimmick. Photographs of ethnically diverse models line the walls. Elaine Good, a makeup artist who has worked in cosmetics retailing and teaches at the Fashion Institute of Technology, says that the SoHo beauty outlets are setting themselves apart from department-store beauty counters by offering nonaggressive service. The store's design is, to say the least, arresting: the womblike circularity of the displays; the black, white and red color scheme; the laptop computers (for finding product information on the Internet), and the cavernous space make the store seem like a cosmetics mother ship built by the engineers of the Starship Enterprise.

Ms. Lee eagerly clicked on both. But the creepy Zen calm is perhaps the appropriate ambiance for Mr. Uemura, a man given to pronouncements like, ''Listen to the voice of your skin'' and ''There is a circle to beauty. Sephora's salesclerks, known as product consultants, are to be outfitted in unisex black tunics, and each will wear one black glove to ''showcase the product, like a jewel at Cartier's, '' Ms. Baker explained.

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