Tips On Making A Rear End Narrowing Jig | What It's Like Lyrics By Phora - Original Song Full Text. Official What It's Like Lyrics, 2023 Version | Lyricsmode.Com

July 8, 2024, 7:39 pm

Thats the exact source I used. That is very close to what I was planning on. Now we can take the 7 1/4" measurement times 2 and add that to our 45 to get a finished (backing plate to backing plate) width of 59 1/2" (45" + 14 1/2" = 59 1/2"). This is a large bearing rearend and the difference between the backing plate and the axle-housing flange is 2 3/8" on each side. See all 27 photos Walden Speed Shop built this jig so they can narrow their own 9-inch rearends. Narrowing a 9-inch rearend the old fashioned way. Mig or Tig dictates alot about the process.

Homemade Rear End Narrowing Jig For Small

Axle Housing Narrowing and Alignment Tools, 1-1/2" Billet Steel Tubing Clamp (Each). See all 27 photos The ladder bar brackets are TIG-welded on both sides. Telescoping or nesting square tubes by Alans Home Workshop on 2023-03-14 02:02:35. The key to using one of these jigs is a spare center section. Axle Housing Narrowing and Narrowing Tool, Pinion Centering Plate Included, Each. Just use this drawing and fill in the measurements. He has a bunch of stuff for all types of rears, 8. When it is cool enough go back and fill in another weld between each of the first four welds. Tube Alignment Rings Pair. Homemade rear end narrowing jig for small. I also remember it also came from somewhere in Texas. Polygonal turning attachment by DIYer on 2023-03-14 06:14:18. 5-Speed Richmond faceplate Liberty box.

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Next the metal rod will be installed and the "chunk" will hold it in correct alignment. Homemade rear end narrowing jig for boat. It positions the housing so all of the additional brackets can be welded in the correct place, including their ladder bar brackets. All of this welding most assuredly warps the housing's axle tubes and, though they may look straight, when even slightly off, the difference might cause the axle to bind in the third member or put under stress and wear on the axles bearing; neither of which you want. Rate this build: LEVEL OF DETAIL (1-5): 1.

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We're not aware of any other spring maker who offers this custom service. I was curious what a jig for such an operation looks like/consists of and how the process is carried out. Not saying thats true for everyone, but it was for me. Don't forget the rearend will have to be re-straightened after the spring brackets have been welded on. Axle Housing Narrowing and Alignment Tools, Centering Jigs, Chrysler, Dana, Ford, GM, Each. Homemade rear end narrowing jia yi. The image above shows the rear after disassembly and cleaning. On our body the wheel housing measurement is 45". Does anyone have any pictures? The process came about because when narrowing a hot rod rearend, you have to weld new ladder bar brackets onto the housing, or possibly spring mounts and/or shock mounts. Part Number: ICB-551382. 875 inches from both sides of the center of the housing for a final width of 45-3/4 inches (a lot more narrow than you'd find under a 1934 with 8-inch American five-spoke wheels). So, the actual measurement of the stock housing itself (flange to flange) is 60 1/8" (64 7/8" - 2 3/8 x2 or 4 3/4" = 60 1/8").

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Again STOP and wait for it to cool a bit. Will the housing real twist enough to make the pad location an issue? Axle Housing Narrowing and Alignment Tools, Inner Pucks / 3. Have a good ground heavy duty shaft to use. Tips on making a rear end narrowing jig. Well I got the bushings done. Need to weld the perches on along with the back brace. See all 27 photos This is one of Walden Speed Shop's new ladder bar and shock mount brackets, which can now slide onto the housing (positioning it so the shock mounts point to the rear of the car and the ladder bar tabs point inboard toward where the driveshaft will eventually be). Narrowing Kit, Rear Axle, Chevy, Dana, Ford, Chrysler, 72 in.

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The Ford 9" has an offset pinion. See all 27 photos After making some wooden spacers, the wheel was set at what looked like the proper distance from the body. It is the axle tube that has slightly warped because of all the welding that was necessary to mount the brackets. Let it cool down a few minutes before continuing. It will also provide the 2" clearance we want from the inside wheel housing. We obtained this by dropping a plumb bob from the widest point of the wheel housing to the floor on each side, making a mark on the floor and then measuring the distance between the two marks. When you can put your hand on it for a couple seconds you can continue.

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Eventually, after this process has been repeated 4 or 5 times you will have a complete weld as you see above. If you can't dazzle them with diamonds, don't waste your time, because nothing will. See all 27 photos So we could use both original Ford wires and new 11-inch Ford brake drums, we bought a set of billet aluminum 5x5. My friend made us a jig. See all 27 photos To set the bearing end in the correct position (so the brake backing plate will line up correctly), the housing is first dialed in with 5 degrees of angle to the rear. OK, so we know the housing is 60 1/8" and the overall width backing plate to backing plate is 64 7/8". See all 27 photos Some more math: After taking into account the wheel adapters, width of the brake drums, and bearing cups, the housing is narrowed for the final time by measuring half of its intended overall width from the center of the housing. BUILDER: Lobucrod on. So, rather than cut 2 13/16" (5 5/8" / 2 = 2 13/16") from each side we will cut 4 13/16" from the driver's side and 13/16" from the passenger's side. Extruded dry ice - photo by odd one on 2023-03-14 05:23:47. With a section width of 10 1/2", we know that the tire at its widest point will overhang the wheel by 1 1/4" on each side (10 1/2 / 2 = 5 1/4 - 4" = 1 1/4"). Before installation and welding, both the flange and the housing tube were chamfered to create a better and stronger weld. Whenever possible, use brackets that weld completely around the housing as these do. This is exactly why we are using this jig.

Homemade Rear End Narrowing Jig System

The flange is in the correct position in relation to the center section here. The housing end can then be installed. See all 27 photos Only a portion of the bearing end will fit into the housing, so it needs to be measured to figure out where you'll make the cuts in the tubing. All of the adapters were made of steel not aluminum. D., Chevy, Ford, Pair. Where do you get the shafts? Estimated USA Ship Date: Wednesday 3/15/2023 Estimated International Ship Date: Friday 12/2/2022 if ordered today. Once you have the bar the donuts are easy. See all 27 photos For this vehicle, it measures 41-1/4 inches between the shackle eyelet centers.

And the method they use isn't one used too much anymore; it's definitely old school in its origins. On mine, a few thousands of an inch between the shaft and pucks that go in the ends and carrier. In our application, we are going to center the pinion in order to limit the angles we have to deal with when completing the driveline setup later. If you look closely at the picture below you will see that the rearend housing is not exactly centered in the frame. A little offset is fine and will help lubricate the needle bearings in the "U" joints but this can easily be handled by pinion angle adjustments. I've been looking through the tech articles and haven't been able to find much on narrowing a 9" rearend, or any, for that matter. It is relatively simple and works pretty well as long as care is taken in welding.

Here you see a chunk with one of the jig's flanges in place. With a mig the heat has to balance the faster will just reduce penetration. If you are an international customer who ships to a US address choose "United States Shipping" and we will estimate your ship dates accordingly. The picture below shows the rearend and the amount removed from each end. Quote: Hard to beat this for cost. Now that we know how wide we need to make the housing, we need to make a decision. Here is a simple metal cutoff saw that was used on this project. We could have used an aftermarket spring, but they're only sold with straight leafs (requiring a different/longer spring mount bracket), and it would still need to be narrowed. They're made from machined billet steel, and these particular ends (PN CE-2008TB) are set up for the large Torino-type bearings. If you are just narrowing the rearend, and not adding a whole bunch of brackets for a 4 bar suspension or ladder bars then the welding is not quite as critical.

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