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Depending on the car, the power, & the front/rear weight bias taking away air pressure usually increases ually. What they're doing is adjusting the stagger minutely, so that the car can go straight down the track. Consequently, you need to change your wheelie bar settings to work with different wheelbases. The higher the front-end of the car rises, the higher the center of gravity becomes. The force comes from your tire patch and extends in a straight line through your ic and on through the entire car. I would leave the rear shocks alone for now.. limiting the front can unload the rear tires if too much limit is put in, also need some method of softening the limiter stop. First round of eliminations and it just went off on me. Running the J-Bar higher on the frame side as compared to the pinion side moves the rear end to the left through chassis roll. Because of this sometimes raising the ladder bar I/C has better results in calming the wheelstand than lowering the bar I/C (again sometimes) because while the higher I/C hits harder, it also doesn't hold "the hit" as long. As a general guideline – more anti-squat in your three link suspension works best if you run low amounts of wedge. Part of the reason for this is that wheelie bars are connected to the rear-end housing.

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Front shocks play an essential role in the overall suspension setup. Ladder bars are easier to tune for the novice than the 4-link and, when set up correctly, provide the same benefits. Before welding, the bar was squared to the body. This might not be acceptable for some builders, so choose your shocks and springs carefully. I have a ladder bar set up on a 1978 monte carlo and it has stock shocks and stock coil springs. As a result, you should always check the rollout (diameter) of your slicks.

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The correct shocks are a worthwhile investment and are dialed into your specific needs. Lower the shock brackets to the next hole (3/4") this will angle the ladder bar down slightly. The 4-link offers the maximum amount of adjustability, which allows for chassis tuning at the track. Remember, too, that slick rollout can change from tire to tire. As we explore issues you might face with drag racing suspension setups, keep in mind that every application will require a different setting, depending on vehicle weight, suspension geometry, available traction, and horsepower, to name a few. Use Bickel's setup and tuning advice, and we're confident you'll get a handle on "hooking hard and going straight! The clamp type aluminum brackets allow you to mount the trailing arm left to right mounting location where ever you want. Before I abandoned the ladder bars I dropped them down as far in front as possible but it only took away some of the hit and rode the bars way down the track. Included in our backhalf package: ~ Made with a bulkhead in front of the 4-link bar for simple installation on any dragster. This increases the load transfer to the rear. This project that is not for the faint of heart. I look at it this way: It's like a football team trying to score with plays that take the ball halfway to the goal line.

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Just want a basic set up, bolt on, no crossmember, no coil Springs. YES, I'd much rather have a 4-link, but the car came with Ladder Bars and I'm on a budget with this one so I have to make them work. To really add over steer at the rear end housing you can mount the front pivot point of the RR trailing arm towards the center of the car. Your thinking of it backwards. The bars connect to the chassis and rear via rod ends that bolt to plates with 8-12 potential mounting points, providing quite a few tuning options. I'm looking for more. AC fabricated 9" housing. If the car isn't pulling the wheel up loosen the front shocks. Current set up 8 3/4 axle sure grip 3. It would be rare that I would recommend going more than an 1/8" and really I will stick with the thought that square is best 95% of the time – maybe even 98%.

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We used a sheet of plywood on the floor to set up the bars. The car will dead hook at times and if I tighten the front to the maximum it will spin. Based on those lower wedge settings I would run a fair amount of anti-squat. Bickel tells us that wheelie bar height is also directly related to overall bar length. And when you adjust "one flat", is that 1/6 turn on the nut? Top drag racers understand that an adequately tuned drag race suspension is critical. Quote] and changing the center of gravity and moving weight forward. Have you ever driven a forklift or other hot rod that had the steer wheel in the back instead of the front? Am I on the right track? A team that teaches you how to get the best out of your customized shocks is transformational. If you run the frame side of the J-bar is higher than the pinion side the rear end housing moves left through roll. 5 ft and 60's in the 1. The Issuu logo, two concentric orange circles with the outer one extending into a right angle at the top leftcorner, with "Issuu" in black lettering beside it. Adjusting the anti-squat for your car, driver and track can maximize exit grip getting your team to the finish line first.

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Another thing to think about is the proposed ladder bar (I/C) angle change.

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If too much weight transfers to your rear tires, you'll experience an excessive wheel stand that will hurt your elapsed time. Learn more about What to Look for in the Best Rear Shocks for Drag Racing. Whether that will make it faster or more consistant is an experiment to find out. Mention Street Lethal Motorsports.

Each end uses threaded rod ends. The shock crossmember was welded to the rear down bars on the roll cage. As the rear-end pinion wraps up on the acceleration, the angle of the wheelie bars changes with it. F) or something is bent/twisted/broke somewhere. Hey, sometimes you miss the setup and it is what it is. Makes alot of sence. The rear shock settings will result in compression or squat. With cars of around 300 to 350hp, you can afford to be less picky. Using trailing arm brackets with multiple trailing are mounting holes gives you additional adjustment options. The fully welded side ensures the correct geometry for the unwelded side. My question is how do I get the bounce out of the car? The shocks (no springs yet) were assembled and bolted to the lower mount. Adding just 5 pounds on the nose can sometimes make a big difference on some cars.

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